SITE INDEX:
Farm Wish List
Follow Eden's on
Facebook,
Twitter and
our Blog
pages where you can keep up with
Life on the Farm.
Eden's In the News & On-Line
Farmer
Marie profiled in Green Source DFW June 29th, 2015
Growing Urban Roots -
Acres USA Dec. 2014 Issue
Voted Best CSA 2013!
Living Natural First Radio Interview
Featured in
Edible Dallas & Forth Worth -
Winter 2009
Market Day Feature Story in
NeighborsGo - July 2010
D Magazine -
Chefs for Farmers Launch long-table style benefit dinner at
Eden's.
Market Day - Our Humble Beginnings
"...an urban country adventure." - Kim Pierce DMN
| |
PREPARE THE SOIL
No matter what kind of soil you have to start with, it can be
improved by following some basic steps. Refer to the soil type pages for recommended rates
of amendments, then follow these steps and you'll be on your way to a beautiful
paradise!
|
|
|
|
- Remove weeds and grass to a depth of about 3" - you might go deeper if we're dealing
with Bermuda. You need to get those wiry roots and rhizomes out of the
soil or they'll multiply! DO NOT TILL BERMUDA!!! You will create
millions of new little plants and you'll be sorry! A sod cutter works
well, or if the area is small you can use a flat shovel and scrape
the turf/weeds off the surface. Compost this waste so it isn't really
wasted. Sometimes it is helpful to spray the area with a vinegar based
weed killer and cover it with plastic to "solarize" the weeds for a few
weeks. We do not recommend using synthetic weed killers for various
reasons.
- Turn in compost and amendments. If the ground is really
hard, as black clay can be, spread out your compost over the top of the soil
until you've put the recommended 4" and then set up the sprinkler or hand
water it till the compost is soaked. This will start to mellow out the
heavy clay underneath. After a few days, you will be amazed at how
much easier the soil will turn. Spread out your soil amendments; lava
sand, greensand, molasses, etc., on the top of the compost
at the rates recommended and mix into the existing soil with a garden fork
or tiller.
Don't work the clay when it is goopy wet though. This will ruin
the structure of the clay and you'll end up with hard chunks of rock like
material.
- With a hard rake, smooth out the nice lush soil you have just created
with a bit of a pitch to it - not flat - so the water will drain and not
pool up in the middle. Look for low spots and be sure to grade it away
from your foundation or other surfaces that would not benefit from having
drainage washing towards it.
- Dig rough sided holes that are twice as wide as the container, but not
any deeper than the plant currently grows. In fact, a bit on the
shallow side is better than too deep.
- Pour a solution of liquid seaweed water into each hole, and make sure the hole drains well.
Most plants won't grow in a hole of standing water or with "wet-feet".
(You may have to relocate the hole or provide drainage by raising the bed or
adding a French drain system.) Drop a handful of earthworm castings
and a pinch of flower fertilizer such as Buds n
Blooms or Rose Glo, into each hole.
Soaking plants in liquid seaweed
solution prior to planting.
|
|
- Place your plant into the hole, gently backfilling with the soil you
removed. Do not tamp down on the soil. Leave it loose. If
the soil sinks in after you water it in with a sprinkling can or Dramm
watering wand, add a little more soil/compost mixture, but don't pack it
down tight or pile soil up around the base of the plant. Gently lift
up plant if it ends up too deep. A little elevated is better than
buried.
- Mulch with 3"-6" of a shredded or ground up material such as native
cedar, hardwood, pecan shells or pine needles. In the sun, use more,
in the shade less mulch is needed. But always mulch. It not only
looks nice, it helps keep weed seeds from hitting the soil and insulates the
soil from the scorching sun, helping to maintain even moisture levels below
ground.
- Water entire bed of newly planted items thoroughly and deeply. We
suggest this initial watering be done by hand with a stream like water
nozzle such as the Dramm watering wand, that can be directed at the root ball of the plants. Another
option is to put the water on at a trickle and allow it to soak in around
each plant one at a time. This may not be as evenly distributed as actually standing
there, but hey, time is money.
- You will need to check for moisture around each plant regularly over the
next several days, especially if you have planted during a hot spell.
Plants need air to grow, too, but newly planted ones can dry out quickly, so keep
an eye on the soil - not the mulch, that always dries out - near the root
ball of each plant and keep it evenly moist. The soil should be the
consistency of a wrung-out sponge.
- Each week, spray with a liquid fish/seaweed or compost tea foliar
mix. The seaweed will help with transplant shock and the fish is a
great natural fertilizer. Once a month, during the growing season, we
suggest a Buds n Blooms or Rose Glo type dusting fertilizer to
provide those hungry microbes what they need to keep your plants happy and
healthy!
Back to top
|
|